Introduction

Via ferrata climbing is a mixture between hiking and free climbing. A via ferrata is a climbing route secured on natural or artificial rock using iron pegs, iron clamps (used as steps), steel ropes or chains. It is often supplemented by ladders, rope bridges, and zip lines (Tyroliennes). A via ferrata is a public installation, distinguished by the fact that it has a fixed, prescribed route. In the past, rocky sections of hiking trails were secured using steel cables. Over time, this developed into via ferrata, which made ever-tougher routes passable for non-climbers.

History

The first via ferrata in Europe was built from 1843 on the Dachstein mountain (Upper Austria/Styria), followed by a second in 1869 on the Grossglockner (Carinthia/Tyrol). During the First World War, the importance of the via ferrata suddenly grew, since the war was in part taking place in the high mountains between Austria-Hungary and Italy. However, interest in these “iron roads” then rapidly decreased as the via ferratas were devalued as “shortcuts for the weak”. There was also long-term scepticism towards this form of mountaineering in Switzerland. In 1993, the first modern via ferrata in Switzerland was opened in Tälli.

Most via ferrata routes in Switzerland were built after 2000. Many of them were initiated and financed by cable car operators, who also maintain them in order to create new attractions for the increasingly important summer tourism season. Several of the newer via ferrata routes have been supplemented with playful elements similar to those found in rope parks, such as rope swings, climbing nets, zip lines, turntable ladders, rope ladders, wobbly or swinging bridges, or stepping elements made of wood. One example of this new playful generation of via ferrata routes is the “adventure via ferrata” below the Gemmi mountain station in Valais.

Today, via ferrata climbing has developed into its own alpine discipline. Via ferrata’s offer athletic mountain hikers a new challenge through the inclusion of varied, enticing and appealing elements. Via ferratas are split into various difficulty classifications depending on technical requirements, length, altitude and other difficulties. The difficulty levels are used to provide an overview of the characteristics of a via ferrata.

Grading of difficulty

Grading scale according to Kürschner

To deliver information more quickly, Kürschner has classified in the year 2006 the difficulty levels of Swiss via ferratas into three colours based on their technical requirements and alpine conditions:

• Blue: via ferrata with low requirements. A head for heights and surefootedness are the minimum requirements for climbers.
• Red: via ferrata with moderate requirements. These via ferrata’s are designed for experienced via ferrata climbers.
• Black: via ferrata with high to very high requirements. Climbing these via ferrata’s is only recommended for very experienced via ferrata climbers.

Grading scale according to Hüsler and Schall

The so-called Hüsler grading scale from the year 2010, ranging from K1 (easy) to K6 (extremely difficult), gives an impression of the technical requirements of the via ferrata passages. This scale takes into account their exposure, structural condition, route length, requirements in terms of arm strength, orientation, nature and length of the approach, and the possibilities for self-belaying.

The skills that a via ferrata climber should have include mountain experience, strength, endurance, and mental resilience. These coordinates can be represented graphically with “Hüsler's via ferrata cross”. Its four arms correspond to the aspects mentioned above, with the color coding ranging from one quarter (easy) to four quarters (very difficult). This way, you know exactly what to expect: a short, extremely exposed route or a long, strenuous ridge crossing.

An alternative grading scale by Kurt Schall uses the letters A (easy) to E (extremely difficult), later supplemented by the category F (extremely difficult). There are no category F via ferratas in Switzerland yet.

Hüsler and Schall's difficulty levels in detail

The two difficulty scales are only rough guidelines and cannot be directly mapped to each other on a 1:1 basis. There are also intermediate ratings, such as K2-3 or B/C. The following graphic provides more information.

K1 / A: easy.

Terrain: flat to steep, mostly rocky or interspersed with rocks, exposed passages possible.

Safety installations and aids: wire ropes, chains, iron clamps (clamps) and occasional short ladders. Most of the route can be climbed without using the safety equipment.

Requirements: Sure-footedness and a head for heights recommended. Good physical condition necessary (depending on the length of the tour).

Equipment: Via ferrata equipment recommended. Experienced walkers can also be found without self-belaying devices.

K2 / B: medium.

Terrain: Steeper rocky terrain. Small footholds in the rock. Exposed sections are to be expected in any case.

Safety installations and aids: Wire ropes, chains, iron clamps, foot pegs, longer ladders (also vertical). Access without self-belaying is possible for experienced hikers, but difficulties up to III (UIAA) are to be expected.

Requirements: Sure-footedness and a head for heights. Good physical condition and some strength and endurance in arms and legs are definitely advantageous.

Equipment: Via ferrata equipment recommended.

K3 / C: fairly difficult.

Terrain: Steep to very steep rocky terrain. Mostly small footholds. Longer or very frequent exposed passages.

Safety installations and aids: Wire ropes, iron clamps, foot pegs, longer and even overhanging ladders. Iron cramps and foot pegs may also be further apart. In vertical sections, sometimes there is only a wire rope.

Requirements: Sure-footedness and a head for heights, good physical condition, strength and endurance in arms and legs. Climbing difficulty (secured) often up to IV (UIAA).

Equipment: Via ferrata equipment is strongly recommended. Inexperienced climbers and children may even need to be secured to a rope.

K4 / D: difficult.

Terrain: Vertical, often overhanging terrain, usually very exposed.

Safety installations and aids: Wire rope, iron clamps, and pegs are often far apart. In exposed and steep places, there is often only a wire rope.

Requirements: Sufficient strength in arms and hands, as longer vertical to overhanging sections are possible. There are also shorter climbing sections without fixed safety equipment (wire ropes) up to II (UIAA).

Equipment: Via ferrata equipment mandatory. Even experienced via ferrata climbers are found in rope teams. Not recommended for beginners and children.

K5 / E: very difficult.

Terrain: Vertical to overhanging. Exposed throughout. Very small footholds or friction climbing.

Safety installations and aids: Wire rope, iron clamps, and footholds are often far apart. In exposed and steep sections, often only a wire rope. Often combined with climbing.

Requirements: A lot of strength in the hands (fingers), arms, and legs. Increased level of fitness and agility. Over longer distances, the main load can be on the arms.

Equipment: Via ferrata equipment mandatory, rope team formation worth considering, especially on tours with sections without safety equipment. Not suitable for beginners and children!

K6 / F: extremely difficult.

Terrain: Primarily overhanging, exposed, very small footholds or friction climbing.

Safety installations and aids: Wire rope, iron clamps, and footholds are often far apart. Combined with climbing.

Requirements: Good climbing skills mandatory. Strong hands (fingers), arms, and legs. Increased level of fitness and agility. Over longer distances, the main load may be on the arms.

Equipment: Via ferrata equipment mandatory, top rope belay recommended. Not recommended for people who cannot easily master difficulty level K5 / E.